Introduction to woodworking finishes

November 13th, 2010 admin1 No comments

Any woodworking project will never be complete without the perfect woodworking finishes. Aside from highlighting the natural beauty of wood, they can also preserve the condition of your woodworking projects for longer periods of time. Once you have earned enough knowledge about various surface finishes, you can add more aesthetic value to every project you wish to create.

Here are some of the most popular woodworking finishes that can turn an ordinary woodworking project to a valuable piece of art.

Primers and sealers
Primers work by eliminating the wood stains caused by fire or water damage. It also hides wood imperfections and serves as the foundation of finishing coats. They can also seal the wood surfaces evenly in order to give wooden materials a topcoat with uniform and consistent textures.

Shellac-based primers are one of the most widely used woodworking finishes. It can adhere to different surfaces such as tile and glass, and it is recommended for spot priming in exterior surfaces.

On the other hand, wood sealers are used for softening woods. They are the ideal woodworking finishes for taming wild-patterned grains and to smooth out stain absorbency. They can easily penetrate the wood and slow down stain absorbency in order to highlight colors and grain patterns.

Wood stains
Stains can accent wood grains without providing maximum protection on its surface. Semi-transparent and semi-solid strains are the two major types of wood stains. Semi-transparent varieties can be applied over bare wood surfaces, while solid stains can be used in both stained and painted surfaces.

These woodworking finishes can be used in shingles, decks, wood siding, furniture, and even other kinds of outdoor structures. If you want to use wood stains that do not fade as fast as oil stains, use latex stains instead of oil-based formulas. It is perfect for various wood types such as redwood, cedar, cypress, and other varieties that are naturally resistant to rotting.

Transparent varnishes are composed of a rich blend of resins and oils that can coat the surfaces of wood and give them a protective coating. Unlike other woodworking finishes, varnish can allow the beauty of wood to show through without sacrificing the amount of protection it can provide.

Varnish can leave a semi-gloss, gloss, or satin finish to different types of wood. The result will depend on the particular formulation of the varnish you wish to use. Before applying it on wood, use a clean brush to keep areas free from dust and dirt. This way, you can prevent foreign materials from damaging the smooth coats of varnish on your woodworking project.

Whatever kind of woodworking finishes you wish to use, just make sure that it can add more value and beauty to each and every woodworking project want to pursue.

Instructions for Oil Wood Finish

November 14th, 2010 admin1 No comments
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Types of Oil

November 14th, 2010 admin1 No comments
Categories: Oil Wood Finish Tags:

Oil Wood Finish

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The oil finish is one of the most traditional approaches to completing your project. While it does not provide as much protection as more modern finishes such as varnishing, oil finishes bring out the natural beauty of the wood better. These oils must change from a liquid to a solid through polymerization, a process that strengthens the cured finish.

Instructions for Lacquer Wood Finish

November 13th, 2010 admin1 No comments

Be sure that your wood is finished properly: the wood must be properly prepared, sanded, and sealed. Clean the piece of wood completely with a tack cloth and protect your working area with cloths or newspaper. Pay special attention to corners and details. Be sure that the wood is completely dry before and make sure the ventilation is adequate.

Test the spray can on a piece of newspaper. Different sprays have different patterns of spray so you must have full control before you apply the lacquer on the surface.

Lacquer is applied by spraying up to six very thin coats. Apply only a thin coat of lacquer. Apply the lacquer slowly and evenly. First spray the top edge of the surface then cover the entire surface in horizontal stripes, from side to side, top to bottom. As you work, overlap the lacquer spray patterns slightly. The edges of each sprayed area are thin; the centers are thick. Overlapping equalizes the thickness of the lacquer film, keeping the surface even. Never try to equalize the film by brushing the lacquer.
Let the lacquer dry for about 48 hours (or as directed by the manufacturer). Rub out with a wet or dry extremely fine grit sand paper followed by a 0000 steel wool. Rubbing out removes the little bits of dust and puckers that cover your lacquer as it dries. Be careful to avoid sanding through the thin layer of lacquer. Clean the surface and apply a second coat of lacquer. Repeat the process for up to six times.

After applying the final coat of lacquer, let the piece of furniture dry for a few days, then lightly buff the lacquered surface with No. 0000 steel wool. Clean the surface thoroughly with a tack cloth. For best results apply a good quality paste wax,

Types of Lacquer

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1. Nitrocellulose lacquer – the most common lacquer on the market. It is made from an alkyd and nitrocellulose resin dissolved and then mixed with solvents that evaporate quickly. This type of lacquer has moderate water resistance, but it’s sensitive to heat and certain solvents. The biggest drawback is the finish’s tendency to yellow as it ages, which shows clearly on light-colored woods.
Most of cans you’ll find in stores are nitrocellulose lacquers.

2. Acrylic-modified lacquer – This lacquer possesses the same general properties of nitrocellulose lacquer, except it is absolutely water-white, meaning it will not show as an amber color when applied over light-colored woods. It is made from a mixture of a nonyellowing cellulose resin and acrylic. This lacquer won’t turn yellow over time.

3. Catalyzed lacquer – Catalyzed lacquer is a complicated finish composed of urea formaldehyde or urea melamine and an alkyd that has some nitrocellulose resin added to make it handle like normal lacquer. The addition of an acid catalyst initiates a chemical reaction that forms a very tough, durable finish.
There are two different catalyzed lacquers:
Pre-catalyzed lacquer – has the components premixed and the addition of catalytic compound that is added either by the manufacturer or at the store when you buy it. The liquid is activated when the can is opened and the liquid is exposed to the air. The can be used in a short amount of time so you can’t store unused finish after you used it. The amount of time you have depends on the formula used during manufacturing.
Post-catalyzed lacquer – the catalytic compound is used separately from the finish. Both components must be mixed together before application. You must mix the two components following precise ratios. The best part is you can mix only what you need and store the two components for later use.

Once the catalyst has been added, these lacquers have a fairly short pot life (the time in which they can be used). bridges the gap between the application traits of nitrocellulose lacquer and the durability of varnish

Lacquer Wood Finish

November 13th, 2010 admin1 No comments

A lacquer wood finish is one of the most popular wood finishes you can apply to wood. The most commercially produced furniture has a lacquer wood finish. Lacquer is the best all-around finish for wood because it easier to apply, dries very fast, imparts an incredible depth and richness to the wood, exhibits moderate to excellent durability and rubs out well.

Regular lacquer can only be applied with spray equipment, but it isn’t necessary to have expensive spray equipment, you can get some reasonably priced airless spray equipment. You can use spray cans of lacquer and get a nice smooth even finish. There is a product called brushing lacquer, which is treated to extend its drying time so it can be brushed..